IS RUSSIAN DECOMMODIFYING IN CATALONIA?

The data collected in an ethnographic study conducted between 2014 and 2016 in tourist areas in Catalonia, Spain shows that the mastery of Russian has become a profitable commodity in Spanish tourism industry. The purpose of this paper is to show where and how Russian is used in the service industry and trace the commodification of the language over time. Against the background of fluctuating numbers of Russian-speaking visitors, this analysis will contribute to a better understanding of processes of language commodification and decommodification and the relationship between wider political and economic contexts and valorisation of particular languages and speakers.


INTRODUCTION
Tourism is currently one of the largest and most dynamic sectors of the Catalan economy: in 2014 it contributed approximately 12% of the Catalan GDP (Agència Catalana de Turisme, 2015).In the context of this ongoing influx of visitors, linguistic exchanges become symbolic exchanges of both cultural and social capital that, under certain conditions, can be converted into economic capital (Bourdieu 1986).What this means, in other words, is that languages function not only as a means of communication, but also as a way to add value to particular products and services.This double duty makes languages, in the view of Heller and associates (2014) "one of the key sites for a sociolinguistic study of the political economy of globalization" (563).The purpose of the present paper is to examine how a particular language -Russian -functions as a commodity in Catalonia's tourism industry within different moments in time.
Official data about tourism flows from countries of the former USSR show that Russian speakers visit Catalonia in large numbers: in 2013 alone nearly one million travellers from the Russian Federation visited this Spanish region (Figure 2).As a result, Russian soon became visible on the streets of Barcelona and other touristic and shopping spots along the Catalan coast, prompting us to conduct an ethnographic study of the actual role of Russian and Russian-speaking tourism workers in the Catalan economy.
In what follows, I will begin with some theoretical considerations, followed by information on Russian tourism in Spain and the design of our study.Next, I will compare the data collected in 2014 with the 2016 data and try to draw some general conclusions about ways in which Russian gained and then lost (some of) its commercial value.

SOME THEORETICAL CONSIDERATIONS
While global mobility and tourism in particular are not new phenomena per se, the onset of the global new economy now allows for commodification of virtually anything (Appadurai 1986).Within this context, tourism emerges as an insightful terrain in the study of language commodification being characterized by two distinct yet closely connected expressions that highlight the conversion of linguistic capital into economic one.
"Tourism presents itself as a means to navigate the new economy in ways which allow for the commodification of culture, identity and language, on the one hand, and the exploitation of multilingual communication skills, on the other.Exactly how this happens is different from one case to another, depending for example, on the nature and degree of economic crisis, access to resources of interested actors, the extent of existing tourism infrastructure or specific local sociohistorical conditions.What they have in common is the fact that this new field of practice produces specific configurations of the interrelation between the symbolic and the economic [...]" (Heller et al. 2015: 563).
First, however, it is necessary to establish what I understand by the term commodity and by the notion of language commodification.According to Heller et al. (2014: 545), "commodification is the expression we use to describe how a specific object or process is rendered available for conventional exchange in the market".Undoubtedly, there is something uncomfortable in this approach to language skills and language work as a commodity exchangeable for money in the capitalist economy.However, linkages and interconnections between language, speakers and the economy within current politicaleconomic conditions are well-described phenomena (Heller 2003;Heller and Duchêne 2012;Irvine 1989), prompting us to further study the conditions that make particular languages and speakers more 'valuable' than others and ask, in which specific contexts this takes place.Thus, for this research on the commodification of Russian within the Catalan tourism industry I have adopted the approach by Pavlenko (2017)  Taking this notion of commodification of languages and speakers as the point of departure, I will now discuss the context of our research, namely Russian tourism in Spain and Catalonia.

RUSSIAN TOURISM IN CATALONIA
According to the last reports of the World Economic Forum (WEF 2015) and the United Nations World Travel Organization (UNWTO 2014), Spain's tourist appeal comes mainly from its extremely competitive tourist service infrastructure, its heritage sites and its cultural resources, as well as from the good safety, security, health  I analyse the presence and importance of the Russian language in different domains linked to tourism, namely hospitality (restaurants, bars and hotels), retail, real estate, and the language industry.

METHODOLOGY
In May 2014 I conducted 218 interviews in shops, bars and restaurants in central Barcelona and in Salou, a coastal resort near Tarragona.In Barcelona, data was collected in the shops, bars and restaurants of Passeig de Gràcia (54% of the interviews), Portaferrissa street (17%) and Portal de l'Àngel street (17%).In Salou, the data was collected on the main shopping street of Salou with 12% of overall interviews).In addition to these short interviews, in 2015 I held six in-depth conversations with hotel staff managers and real estate agents in Salou and Cadaqués, a coastal resort along the Costa Brava.Our goal was to obtain more comprehensive information about the value of Russian in different commercial fields and in different localities popular with Russian visitors.In addition I collected data from chambers of commerce, real estate agencies, and language school and took pictures of linguistic landscapes (Shohamy and Gorter 2008).Linguistic landscaping as a methodology within sociolinguistic research refers to the study of language in the public sphere of mostly urban environments.In this research, linguistic landscaping has the advantage to provide data on the use of Russian (also in relation to other languages) on shop fronts, posters, advertising banners and billboards, but also on restaurant menus, leaflets and within stores and restaurants.Furthermore, it allows for the documentation of language use over time (Pavlenko and Mullen, 2015), an aspect that will provide helpful for scholars wishing to revisit particular locations and document, how and to what extent written language use has changed over time in a given area, in turn relating those to wider political and economic contexts.
The choice of the specific research sites was conditioned by several reasons.In the case of Barcelona, the typological disparity of the shopping streets results from the traditional commercial organisation of the city around trade unions, roughly following the principle one street, one business activity), as well as from the current gentrification processes which have extraordinarily altered the city centre in recent years.Passeig de Gràcia is an upmarket spot; it is extremely exclusive in its upper side, with international haute couture brands and becoming more oriented towards middle-class customers near Portal de l'Àngel.Portal de l'Àngel itself is a traditional shopping street, home to one of the first department stores in Barcelona.At present, it is a middle-class oriented shopping street, with all major franchise stores you can find in shopping centres all over the world, as well as with some traditional shops that still resist the severe gentrification taking place in the area.In fact, Portal de l'Àngel happens to feature the most expensive real estate in Spain concerning retail stores, with Passeig de Gràcia ranking third on the same list (Cushman and Wakefield 2016).Finally, Portaferrissa is a traditional commercial street, with shops and bars ranging from middle-class oriented to very popular.
The tourist spots by the sea were chosen for similar reasons.Salou is a very popular beach spot in Costa Daurada with non-expensive hotels and services, easily accessible from Barcelona by train and by a low-cost airport in nearby Reus.On the other hand, Cadaqués is an exclusive spot along the Costa Brava, accessible only after a long and winding drive.It is a small village with about 3.000 inhabitants and that has preserved Remarkably, in one international haute couture shop and in one jewellery shop along Passeig de Gràcia, all sales staff was either Russian or Russian-speaking.It's not easy to know who are the owners of these establishments, since they are usually operated by shell companies.In a number of jewellery shops, half of the staff was Russian-speaking and the other half was Chinese-speaking, hinting that Chinese is also a commodity in the local tourism industry (see Image 1). Figure 5 presents the results according to the type of establishment.I can see that luxury establishments were more prone to offer services in Russian, with the language being spoken in the vast majority of jewelleries and international haute couture shops (such as Versace, Vuitton, Chanel, etc.).Around half of the stores selling home goodswith a slightly lower proportion of perfume shops -offered their service in Russian, while one third of the souvenir shops claimed to be able to offer their services to Russian speakers in Russian.
With regard to restaurants and bars, I found that 25% of the establishments offered service in Russian; in addition to that, 54% of the visited bars and restaurants had menus We also took a look at the real estate industry, where Russians are among the top buyers.In 2016, Russians bought 2,83% of the houses purchased by foreigners in Spain, ranking 10 th in a list topped by UK nationals.In Catalonia, Russians bought 3,99% of houses purchased by foreign nationals and ranked 5 th in a list topped by Chinese nationals.If we compare the relative figures of the last three years, we'll see that the share of Russian-bought houses in Catalonia shows higher rates than the average in Spain (Figure 6).

LEARNING RUSSIAN
The last domain I analyse in relation to the valorisation of Russian in Catalonia is the extent to which this language is learnt in official language schools.There is no data on private language courses, so I have to take the official data as the only indicator.There are 45 official language schools in Catalonia.Russian is learnt in 7 of them, namely in Barcelona, Calella, Girona, Lleida, Salou, Tarragona and Tortosa.In relation to the overall number of foreign language students, the number of those learning Russian did not significantly change in the past 15 years.In absolute figures, students have doubled in number if compared with pupils as of 1999-2000, but the total share is still under the 2% of overall language students (Figure 7).
In our opinion, the increase in the aggregate number of Russian learners has more to do with the widespread growth of foreign language learning across Europe than specifically with the Russian language itself.The subtle drop in 2014-15 could be easily interpreted as a reflection of the mantra repeated in the media for almost three years, namely 'this is the end of the Russian tourism as we know it'1 .Besides these students learning Russian in language schools, official statistics ( 2013

Image 1 .
Display in Russian and Chinese at a shop front of a jewellery shop In Passeig de Gràcia and in Salou, shops featured Russian-speaking staff for almost four years during our initial research in 2014.The vast majority of these Russian speakers were Russian or Ukrainian nationals with legal residence in Catalonia; I found only four interviewees in Barcelona and five in Salou who were Catalonians with an intermediate level of Russian.I do not know what languages were spoken in the establishments before, presumably French and German, which have been now replaced by an English-only policy towards every language except for Russian and Chinese, since Russian-and Chinese-speaking visitors usually don't have even an elementary command of any foreign language.
Heller (2010)ngHeller (2010)defines commodification of Russian as, "[...] the process where a new value is accorded to linguistic resources and is made commensurable across a set of exchangeable things.Exchangeable things refer to salaries and other forms of financial compensation received by speakers of Russian in functioning markets in expectation of greater profits.The resources involve Russian as a technical skill [...]" (2).

BEYOND CONVENTIONAL TOURISM: THE REAL ESTATE INDUSTRY
Tourist services offered in Russian in Salou

Image 7 .
Russian real estate agent in Salou Image 9. Russian real estate agent in Salou.It claims to be the first Russian agent in town.
) suggest that there are 71.000fluent speakers of Russian in Catalonia, including native (L1) and non-native advanced speakers.